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March 23, 2005
Wine Update
I think it is high time for a wine update. I've drunk a whole lot of wine since my last post on the subject. Let me first point out a very cheap ($10-$12) red:
E. Guigal 2001 Cotes du Rhone. On the palate it is very nice, but it has that positively racy Rhone varietal thing going on on the nose. A nice, light, and refreshing red with complex aromas that is definitely underpriced for its level of quality.
But never mind that: it's time to get down to brass tacks here. After all, we are men of action, and avoiding the real issue does not become us.
On that note, it is beginning to turn a little warm here in the Southern Part of Heaven. The passing of winter inevitably means a shift in culinary emphasis in our household. Out with the braises and heavy, hearty pastas and risottos of Northern Italy. In with the lighter, spicier, more oil based sauces of southern Italy. In with the grilled foods.
And here comes the real challenge from the wine perspective: in with the Vietnamese food. Let me offer a few suggestions for pairings with south east Asian food (for a variety of reasons, I think these sorts of choices might work with other Asian cuisines, like Hunanese from China or Korean, as well):
1. Riesling. That's obvious. I recommend Schoffit for everyday drinking. At around $20 it delivers outstanding quality.
2. Vouvray. Avoid sec in favor of demi-sec. The sweeter quality of the latter just plays better.
3. Orvieto. Look for the amabile.
4. Gewurtztraminer.
5. Pinot Grigio. There are so many. Go for the truer ones: I think that one of the best is Jermann's. Russiz Superiore is awfully good as well.
6. Moscato d'Asti: Best served very cold on the hottest days.
7. White zinfandel. Yes, you read correctly: white zinfandel. It may not be complex, but it does match up well with some elements of the Vietnamese taste spectrum. And besides, on the worst summer days you want refreshing, not complex.
8. The crisper manifestations of viognier.
9. Tocai Friulano. I recommend Livio Felluga. Once again, Russiz Superiore is a very good choice as well.
10. Lugana (from the Lake Garda area of Italy). Try Zenato for a cheap and great example.
And here are some other specific wine suggestions (in terms of winemakers):
1. Anything white by Kistler.
2. Jermann's (well, why not?) Vintage Tunina. This exciting but pricey blend ($50-$60) is a very special white from a very special place: Friuli.
3. Soutomaior Albarino-An instant classic from Galicia. You'd think that hot days and Asian food were its' destiny.
4. Hugel Gentil (A traditional white wine from Alsace).
Can anyone recommend anything else?
Posted by dag at March 23, 2005 10:36 PM